Our Deck Repair Process
Corey Walker Flooring takes the skill and precision of hardwood flooring and applies it to deckboard replacement for proper fit and finish. As well as structural joist, handrail and stringer repairs.
Removal of Damaged Boards
- Identify the Damage: Look for rot, structural cracks, or severe warping.
- Clean the Joist: Once the board is removed, scrape away any debris or old sealant from the top of the exposed joist.
Preparing the Joist
- Inspection: Check the exposed joists for "soft spots" or rot. If the joist is damaged, it may need to be "sistered" (bolting a new piece of lumber alongside the existing one).
- Joist Tape: It is highly recommended to apply butyl joist tape to the top of the joists before installing new boards. This prevents water from sitting between the board and the joist, significantly extending the life of the repair.
Sizing and Cutting
- Actual vs. Nominal: Remember that "5/4 x 6" is the nominal size; the actual dimensions are typically 1" thick by 5.5" wide.
- End-Cut Treatment: Pressure-treated lumber is chemically treated on the surface. When you make a cut, you expose the untreated core. Always brush an end-cut wood preservative (like copper naphthenate) onto any raw cuts to prevent internal rot.
Installation and Spacing
- "Bark Side Up": Look at the end grain of the board. Install the board so the rings curve downward (like a rainbow) to minimize "cupping" as the wood dries.
- Gap Management: If the wood is wet/fresh from the store, install the boards tight against each other; they will shrink as they dry, creating a natural gap. If the wood is kiln-dried or seasoned, use a 3/16" spacer (about the width of a 16d nail) to allow for drainage and expansion.
- Fasteners: Use 3" #8 or #10 stainless steel or high-quality coated deck screws. Avoid standard screws, as the chemicals in pressure-treated wood will corrode them quickly.
Finishing
- Weathering: Allow new pressure-treated wood to dry for several weeks (until water no longer beads on the surface) before applying a stain or sealer.
- Gap Management: If the wood is wet/fresh from the store, install the boards tight against each other; they will shrink as they dry, creating a natural gap. If the wood is kiln-dried or seasoned, use a 3/16" spacer (about the width of a 16d nail) to allow for drainage and expansion.
- Blending: To make the new board match the old deck, you may need to clean the entire deck with a wood brightener before staining.
Our Deck Cleaning Process
Corey Walker Flooring takes a systemic approach to cleaning your deck without damaging the wood fibers and providing a clean foundation for the new stain or sealer.
Preparation and Safety
- Clear the Area: Remove all furniture, plants, and grills from the deck.
- Protect Plants: Thoroughly wet down any nearby grass or shrubs and cover sensitive plants with plastic sheeting to protect them from cleaning chemicals.
- Sweep: Use a broom or leaf blower to remove loose debris, leaves, and needles.
Choosing the Right Equipment
- Pressure Settings: Use a low-to-medium pressure setting. For softwoods like pressure-treated pine or cedar, stay between 600 and 1,200 PSI. Exceeding this can etch the wood or cause splintering.
- Protect Plants: Thoroughly wet down any nearby grass or shrubs and cover sensitive plants with plastic sheeting to protect them from cleaning chemicals.
- Nozzle Selection: Use a fan-tip nozzle (typically the 25-degree or 40-degree tip). Avoid the 0-degree "pencil" tip, as it is too powerful and will gouge the wood.
Application of Cleaning Agents
- Deck Cleaner: Apply a specialized deck cleaner or oxygen bleach solution. This helps break down mold, mildew, and UV-damaged wood fibers.
- Dwell Time: Let the cleaner sit for 10–15 minutes (without letting it dry on the wood) to loosen the grime.
The Pressure Washing Technique
- Maintain Distance: Keep the wand tip approximately 12 inches away from the surface.
- Consistent Motion: Move the wand in long, even strokes along the length of the boards (parallel to the grain).
- Overlap: Overlap each pass slightly to avoid "lap marks" or visible lines where you started and stopped.
- Continuous Movement: Never let the wand stay in one spot while the trigger is pulled, as this will leave a permanent mark in the wood.
Post-Cleaning Care
- Rinse: Thoroughly rinse the entire deck and the siding of the house to remove all soap and loosened debris.
- Drying Time: Allow the deck to dry for at least 48 hours before applying any stain or sealer.
- Sanding: Once dry, if the pressure washing has "fuzzed" the wood fibers, a light sanding with 60-80 grit sandpaper may be necessary before refinishing.
Our Deck Staining Process
Deck staining is a critical final step in deck maintenance that protects the wood and ensures a cohesive appearance. Corey Walker Flooring understands that deck staining is the key to long lasting decks in the extreme summer sun in the south. Without proper sealing/staining the long exposure to UV will ruin a deck in a few years.
Preparation and Timing
- Weathering Period: For new pressure-treated wood, you should allow it to dry for several weeks until water no longer beads on the surface before applying any stain or sealer.
- Surface Preparation: To ensure the new boards blend with the existing deck, it may be necessary to clean the entire deck with a wood brightener before staining.
Application Details
- Protective Layers: Similar to the Hardwood Floor Refinishing process, staining allows you to change the appearance of the wood by applying a specific color, such as Red Mahogany, followed by protective coatings.
- Maintenance Goals: The primary goal of finishing is to provide structural integrity and moisture protection for the exterior wood.
Photos of Our Deck Work
Need Deck Work? Call Corey Walker Flooring
Whether it is deck repairs, cleaning, or staining, ensure the work is done right by contacting Corey Walker Flooring and scheduling an estimate.